The Filipino beef marrow soup–a simple dish that has a great hold on our appetites
by Mike Aquino for Yahoo! Southeast Asia
For all the power our memories invest in Filipino cuisine, they mostly boil down to the simplest ingredients and styles of preparation. Look at bulalo — what Filipino dish is its equal in simplicity? What similarly simple dish has as great a hold on our memories and our present-day appetites?
The verbal description of bulalo does it no justice, really: at least on paper, it's nothing but boiled beef shank, with the marrow in the bone. But a quick gulp of the stuff sets you straight: bulalo's broth is incomparably rich, taking flavor from the marrow in the bone.
Bulalo uses the marrow-rich beef shank, with the ratio of bone, beef, and marrow left entirely to the chef. Beef fat adds flavor, but also contributes to the sebo, or waxy scum that accumulates as the dish cools. A leaner cut of beef may minimize the sebo, but may also reduce the flavor.
You do not hurry a good bulalo — hours of slow cooking tenderizes the meat and draws out the flavor.
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